FRAM K3926 Spin-On Filter Base

FRAM K3926 Spin-On Filter Base Review

FRAM K3926 Spin-On Filter Base Feature

  • Prevent abrasives, corrosive moisture and other harmful contaminants from entering the vehicle
  • Made of high quality material
  • Resists fatigue failure
  • Highly durable and reliable
  • America’s choice

FRAM K3926 Spin-On Filter Base Overview

Since 1934 FRAM has been a pioneer in the field of oil filtration. We are committed to providing your vehicle with the very best in engine protection with premium, application-specific oil filters. Our dedication is backed by substantial, ongoing research in filtration media, filter design and manufacturing processes. As a result, FRAM oil designs represent the very best of what we have learned after decades of research and development. No matter what type of vehicle you drive FRAM has you covered.

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Ford 3S7Z-6881-AA – ADAPTOR – OIL FILTER

Ford 3S7Z-6881-AA – ADAPTOR – OIL FILTER Review

Ford 3S7Z-6881-AA – ADAPTOR – OIL FILTER Feature

  • Genuine Ford Part 3S7Z-6881-AA
  • Engineered by Ford specifically for your vehicle
  • Ford quality construction
  • Warrantied by Ford Motor Company
  • Customer will be contacted if core charge applies to part.

Ford 3S7Z-6881-AA – ADAPTOR – OIL FILTER Overview

This is a Genuine Ford part, designed and engineered by Ford Motor Company. To find other Genuine Ford parts, search Amazon by the Ford part number. Customer will be contacted if core charge is applicable to order. The core charge will be refunded when the core is returned at the customer’s expense.

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Wix 51537 Cartridge Metal Canister Lube Filter, Pack of 1

Wix 51537 Cartridge Metal Canister Lube Filter, Pack of 1 Review

Wix 51537 Cartridge Metal Canister Lube Filter, Pack of 1 Feature

  • Includes gasket, mounting plate, center tube and inner element tube
  • Increased dirt-holding capacity
  • High particle size retention
  • Low oil flow restriction
  • Highly durable and reliable

Wix 51537 Cartridge Metal Canister Lube Filter, Pack of 1 Overview

Wix Cartridge Metal Canister Lube Filters protect the engine from premature wear by removing the abrasive contaminants in the engine lubricating system. They are made of pleated paper which arrests various types of suspended materials. They can easily be installed and requires very low maintenance.

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S&S CYCLE FILTER OIL CHR 84-99BT 31-4102

S&S CYCLE FILTER OIL CHR 84-99BT 31-4102 Review

S&S CYCLE FILTER OIL CHR 84-99BT 31-4102 Overview

S&S CYCLE FILTER OIL CHR 84-99BT 31-4102

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Wix 51749MP Oil Filter

Wix 51749MP Oil Filter Review

Wix 51749MP Oil Filter Overview

OIL FILTER

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Melling Automotive Products V1542 Exhaust Valve

Melling Automotive Products V1542 Exhaust Valve Review

Melling Automotive Products V1542 Exhaust Valve Overview

Melling V1542

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Winter Motorcycle Storage Tips

 It’s that time of year again, the nights are drawing in, the roads are covered with wet leaves and you’re starting to think a canoe would be more practical than a motorcycle right now. It may only be the start of winter, but we’ve already had floods and our first snow. As reluctant as you may be to admit it, it’s probably time to put the motorcycle into hibernation for the winter.

However, before you shut it away in the garage for the next few months, it may be worth taking a little time just making sure its comfy and more importantly, going to be good-to-go as soon as the weather picks up. Here are just a few simple tips to ensure that your motorcycle will be ready to go the second you are.

First up, take it for one last ride. Any niggling noises you’ve been ignoring or anything that doesn’t feel right should be addressed now. Once the motorcycle is warmed up, any condensation from the exhaust will evaporate too. On your way back top up the fuel tank. Half empty tanks are a great place for moisture to build up which coupled with any exposed metal could damage your bike. Once you’re back home, top the engine up with some fuel stabilizer and run the motorcycle for a few minutes to allow it to work its way round, even if your motorcycle doesn’t have carburetors, a fuel stabilizer will stop any compounds from the fuel tank breaking up and damaging your engine.

Changing the oil and filter is very important too; any acid compounds developed by the oil will need to be flushed out. As this oil will need to be drained before you next ride, it doesn’t need to be the most expensive oil on the market. Submerging some of the more sensitive parts of your motorcycle, like the bearings, in oil will help prevent corrosion. Remember that any excess oil has to be drained before starting the engine as too much oil can damage the engine just as much as too little oil. You will also need to top up the antifreeze. If you’re able; drain the float plugs. Alternatively, if a stabilizer is added to the fuel and run through the system this should work just as well. Before you put your motorcycle into storage, you will also need to lube the chain, if left; the chain can corrode and rust. Remember to keep any lubricants away from the breaks or tyres, assuming you want to stop without the aid of a tree next time you try to break. Any other exposed metal is going to need some WD40 to prevent any rust and corrosion.

It may sound obvious, but give the bike a good clean. This will enable you to notice anything out of the ordinary as well as removing any dirt or grime which could damage the motorcycle over the winter months, just remember not to put it away whilst it’s still wet. If there’s anything worth repairing or maintaining this is a great time to get it out of the way, so that in the spring the motorcycle will be ready to go as soon as the weather permits. Chances are with most motorcycles these days everything will be ok, but your motorcycle maybe close to a valve adjustment or something similar and now is a great time to get that done.

Next you’ll have to remove the battery, especially if your motorcycle is going to be left to brave the elements outside all winter. Batteries contain water which can freeze and expand, this can cause the battery to crack and once it melts it can then leak. If you can, leave your battery hooked up to a small charge for the winter. A battery tender will give it just the charge it needs without letting it over charge. If you leave your battery alone to stand in your bike all winter, you’ll have trouble even getting to the shop to buy a new one!

All that’s left now is to find somewhere nice and dry to store you motorcycle. Ideally your bike would prefer to be left in a garage but if that’s not possible try and make sure it’s covered. It is worth bearing in mind though, if its left with a cover outside, condensation could build up and you’ll have a very impressive pile of rust to take on your first ride out in the spring. If you’re going to have to leave your motorcycle outside make sure it’s secure and preferably out of sight. Nothing says challenge like an unattended motorcycle with nothing more than a glorified keychain round it. If you can, leave your motorcycle on a stand as this will take any weight from the suspension.

Well that’s it, time to relegate yourself to the car for the next few months. Next time you’re at a loose end on a bright clear Sunday afternoon, refrain yourself from taking your bike for a quick mid winter spin, you’ll only end up creating condensation in the engine, instead get on with a bit of routine maintenance.

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How To Choose The Best Swimming Pool Filter

A lot of folks seem to be confused about which filter will work best for their swimming pool. There is no one simple answer for that question, but the more you understand about swimming pool filters the better decision you can make.

There are three main types of swimming pool filters and they are sand, cartridge, or diatomaceous earth. Actually, any of the three will do a fine job of filtering your pool, but there are advantages and disadvantages for each of them. Let’s see what they are.

Sand filters — these are very simple filters that use a layer of sand that the swimming pool water is pumped through to clean and filter out impurities from the water. The dirty water goes in one side and it comes out clean on the other side of the filter. Eventually, the filter gets plugged though and will have to be backwashed to remove the debris. Often this has to be done every couple of weeks or so.

Cartridge filters — these are perhaps the easiest to understand and use. They work much the same way that an oil filter does for your car’s engine. The dirty water goes into the filter, passes through the filter material, deposits the debris on the material, and then exits back to the pool. Some cartridges must have their filter material replaced every few weeks or so, and others can be cleaned only once or twice a season and then reused.

Diatomaceous earth — this filter is considered the best water polisher of the three filters mentioned. The tiny diatoms can filter out debris as small as 5 microns from your water, making it an excellent cleaner. Similar to the sand filter, the diatomaceous earth filter must be backwashed every so often when the pressure rises in the filter. The old diatomaceous earth is washed away, and the new earth is applied by you to the filter through the pool skimmer.

So what is the best swimming pool filter for you? Well that all the depends on several factors. What is most important to you? If you want low maintenance of a pool filter, then the cartridge filter is what you should go for. If you want an absolutely reliable, long-lasting filter, then the sand filter may be your best choice. If on the other hand, having the cleanest water possible is a high priority for you, then the diatomaceous earth filter just simply can’t be beat. And keep in mind that you can add diatomaceous earth to both the sand filter and a cartridge filter to improve their water cleaning capabilities without causing any problems in the process too.

Hopefully, this article has helped you understand a little bit more about the different kinds of swimming pool filters that are available, how they work, and what you can expect from each one. By examining the features listed above you should be able to decide which swimming pool filter will work best for you.

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Swapping a V8 Into a Toyota MR2 – Build Your Own Supercar

Please note: This is the first in a series of articles on this subject.

For many years, I have dreamed of owning a mid-engine exotic supercar. Unfortunately, they remained out of my reach financially. I decided that the only way I was going to get one was to build it myself. I have always been fascinated by mid-engine sports cars due to their superior handling, braking, and traction over a front engine sports car (even those front engine cars with a rear transaxle, or as I like to call them, the “dumbbell cars”).

In the realm of affordable mid-engine sports cars, there are Pontiac Fieros and there are Toyota MR2s. In each case, the cars came with 4 cylinder motors. The Fieros also got V6s, but those V6’s were very underpowered, with a whopping 140hp. In 1990, Toyota redesigned the MR2 and upgraded the power as well. Base models got 130hp and the high-end Turbo was 200hp, which at the time, was quite a bit for a car that weighed 2700 lbs.

The new body was very good looking, much like the Ferrari 348 at the time. The build quality was also superior as it was, after all, a Toyota. I decided to purchase a 1993 Toyota MR2 turbo in 2005 with the intention of doing a Toyota V6 swap, which up to that point, had been done by many people. At about that same time, I found that there were some attempts to install a V8 engine into the earlier MR2 (Generation 1, 1984-1989 body style, or mark 1). There were also attempts to install a Toyota/Lexus V8 engine into a MR2 mark 2. The attempts at doing the V8 into the MR2 mark 2 were not completed, and the project owners gave up. The reasons were not clear, but it appeared to be due to the fact that the Toyota V8 was simply too long to fit in the car transversely, even after cutting the car severely in an attempt to make it fit.

As a Mechanical Engineer who happens to be a mid-engine sports car nut, I became intrigued with the possibility of putting a V8 into my MR2 mark 2. With a strong V8 engine, the MR2 would be transformed into a supercar, with supercar performance. The Fiero guys have enjoyed swapping V8s into their cars for many years. Fieros have an advantage over MR2s in that their engine compartment is wider allowing for a larger and longer engine, like a V8. Fieros and MR2s all have transversely mounted engines. Another advantage the Fiero guys have had is that the stock Getrag transaxle bolts up to a Cadillac 4.9 L OHV V8 from the late 1980’s/early 1990’s. The later Cadillac Northstar also bolts up without an expensive custom machined adaptor plate.

In late 2007, another V8 in a MR2 mark 1 (1st generation) was completed by a guy in Europe. The car was crazy fast, and would do cookies at the drop of a hat. What fun! So, I took another hard look at the prior attempts to install a V8 into the MR2 mark 2. What I realized was that they were attempting to “keep it in the family” and use a Toyota or Lexus V8. There wasn’t really any valid engineering reason to use this power plant. It did not bolt up to any of the MR2 transaxles, and it was too long. The Toyota V8 used, engine code 1UZ-FE) is about 26 inches long from the crank pulley to the rear face of the engine, or bell housing interface. This is the critical dimension. Compare this to the stock MR2 engines like the 2.0L 3S-GTE turbo motor which has a critical dimension of 20 inches. This dimension is critical because it fits between the unibody pseudo-frame rails of the MR2 chassis.

I decided to take a different approach. I started searching the internet for a V8 engine that would fit the MR2 chassis, preferably with no cutting, or possibly with only a small amount of cutting of the MR2 unibody. My requirements were that it be a V8 with at least 300 horsepower, that it is available, that it would cost somewhere under $50000, and that it would be short enough and narrow enough to fit the MR2. I succeeded in finding one. Audi has an interesting habit of making very short V8’s. They do this because they want to use their Quattro drive train, but at the same time, not compromise handling too much. Audi seems to prefer longitudinal engine and transmission arrangements over transverse. The Quattro drive train involves a driving front axle, which they had to locate behind the engine. If the engine is too long, it puts too much weight in front of that axle, so they compensate by making a shorter engine. This has the added benefit of allowing Audi to install this engine in smaller cars that were originally intended to have a 4 cylinder power plant. For my purposes, I found that the 1991 through early 2000 Audi V8 engines are approximately 20.6 inches long at the critical dimension, and about 29 inches wide, not including the headers, or other easily removed items.

I purchased a 1997 Audi 4.2L V8 (engine code ABZ) and a transaxle, and started working on my project. Unfortunately, after much trial and error, I finally decided that the Audi V8 was not suitable for this engine swap. The problem laid in the fact that the engine was always designed to be longitudinal. In my case, with a transverse layout, the right size axle had to run along side of the engine, and Audi did not design the engine with that in mind, so there are large portions of the block in the way of that axle. The starter, oil filter/cooler and engine mount are also in the way on that side, however, I did solve those problems. The nail in the coffin of the Audi was the adaptor plate. I determined that the adaptor plate required some of the mounting bolts to be located inside of the bell housing, so it was impossible to tighten them. At that point, I decided to change my approach and use a different engine.

Please stay tuned for the next in this series of articles.

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A Closer Look at Automotive Engine Parts

If you own a car or truck then chances are you need good automotive engine parts for servicing your vehicle. There are hundreds of different parts for your car, and your engine can be a very complicated machine to work on. That being said having proper knowledge of what goes where and how it works is very important.

Vehicles of all kinds need maintenance and the first type that comes to mind is an oil change. Typically you want high quality oil for your car but that’s not all that’s needed. You also need a good oil filter in order to ensure proper oil flow. Having this routine operation done on schedule can keep your vehicle running for a very lone time.

Next operation that comes to mind is a tune up. This requires some of the most basic automotive engine parts and many people can do it themselves. The parts needed for this are spark plugs, spark plug wires, a distributor cap, and an air filter. The operation is simple, and does not take very long to perform.

Aside from the smaller simpler operations many complex repair and maintenance procedures require expensive and heavy duty automotive engine parts. Anything pertaining to the cylinders, valves, water pump, and belt system can be very expensive. If you need work in any of these areas it’s generally not a good idea to put it off. Of course this is true for most repair procedures but especially in these categories.

Alternators are one of the more pressing automotive engine parts to take care of. They can also be one of the most infuriating as poor quality models will continually go out. These can also run quite a bit of money and you don’t want to have one replaced more than once every 3 years. Unfortunately they aren’t something that you can simply ignore and deal with until they fail.

The alternator is what keeps your battery recharged when the car is running. If it is damaged or not working properly it won’t recharge your battery properly and this can result in your car not starting. It can also do some damage to your cars electrical system as well. Having your cars wiring replaced is a very expensive and time consuming operation.

The most important part when talking about an engine is the engine block itself. This is essentially the main part that everything else fits inside of, plugs into, or runs off of. A cracked block can lead to severe performance problems and eventually a destroyed motor. It’s best to get these serviced right away as the longer you leave the crack the worse it can get.

Automotive engine parts are some of the most complicated products to shop for. There are many different brands and models for the myriad of different automobiles on the market. For the first time shopper it can be immensely confusing and overwhelming. If you have to shop for parts make sure you go to a reputable store and ask for help. Most auto parts stores will be happy to help you find what you need and recommend the right model for your car.

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